by Jeremy Quinton
Home >> King Carlos
Look the other way, into the hazy distance, and your view rests on the Peruvian shores of Lake Titicaca. The lake is so big—the highest navigable lake in the world, they say—that you could easily mistake the lake for the sea.
Famous for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets, the island is covered by koa trees and dusty paths. More importantly, The Island of the Sun is the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. It was here that a number of important Inca figures made their mystical appearances. Inca ruins can be found at both ends of the island.
Walking all morning from one end to the other, we reached the ruins at the time of day when the sun was at its highest and hottest. There in the shade, near a rock, was Carlos.
A tour guide “with a difference.�
Carlos, perhaps in his early forties, carried three things. A red backpack, a much-used pencil, and a soft, timid smile. He approached us uncomfortably, almost as if he was about to ask us for something he felt he wasn’t supposed to.
As an islander, he said, he simply wanted to welcome us as brothers—not visitors or tourists, he explained (to him these words sounded “cold�)—to the place where he lived and where so much had happened in the past. He explained that at the end of the tour we would be welcome to offer some money in return, if we wanted to. Most people, he said, offered about 10 bolivianos, but everyone was free to offer what they felt right.
Carlos then took us round the Chincana complex, explaining the history of the place in exquisite style, bit by bit, diverting his attention from his magical story and his brothers (us!) only to remind local school children to dispose carefully of litter.
He wanted to learn more about where we had come from, and some phrases in English too. He showed me his notebook, where he’d meticulously written down every word and phrase in English that he’d been able to collect. There were over two thousand words, I quickly estimated (more, in truth, than Carlos would ever probably need on the island…but who knows).
He drew maps and explanations with his pencil in the sand. And then, from the red backpack he took out a plastic folder containing hand-drawn maps of the island, which he’d coloured in with crayons. He also taught us some words in his language, aymará. My favourite was waliki_—translated as _muy bien in Spanish.
When it came to paying, it felt as if the main transaction had already taken place. Our walk back took another four hours, but for most of that we talked—or thought—about the meeting with Carlos.
When was the last time you were offered something—a product or service—and had the opportunity to name the price yourself? It hasn’t happened to me lately, as far as I know.
Carlixto Ramos, yuspagara! Thank you.
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This is a singular article Jeremy.
In this article there is reflected the vocation that a person takes as his work, really he speaks about his life, cnsidering the persons who are going to know his country as brothers and not as tourists.
To be able to employed at what really you like, without waiting for anything in return, it contrasts with the consumer life that nowadays the society imposes on us.
When you read the article, you reflect on the important things, one of them, to feel good with you same.
I hope we had all a litle of Carlos “of his Generosity”
Very well !
Reyes Moreno.
It’s a very nice article. The description of the place is wonderful and one can feel a big wish to go there.
You were very lucky to meet Carlos. It’s a great thing that one born in that place can tell you, with all his love, the history of the place. It must be a pleasure to listen to him.
It reminds me of my father-in-law. He’s a good basque man and loves to tell anybody the history of Loyola (near Azkoitia where he is from) and to show every place near it. I have heard him a hundred times but it’s always like the first one because the enthusiasm and the sincerity of the speaking.
Best wishes,
Lourdes
We had a similar experience once. We were walking in the hills whilst on holiday, and suddenly this man announced to all the people nearby that he was about to take a tour into the rainforest. He said he studied at the local university, and he would not charge for his tour. However, if we felt it was worth paying for – just like Carlos – he would gratefully accept donations! His tour was amazing – he explained every rainforest tree and plant to us, telling us how the natives used them for medicine, construction and food. It seemed there was nothing he didn’t know about this environment, and he was more than happy to answer every question we had, no matter how trivial. At the end of the tour, the minimum I think everyone gave him was US$20 (about €15) – well worth it!
Wow! What a sharp contrast to the European Tourist Attractions where you have to pay just to go to the bathroom or toilet. The other day I was walking along the sea near my house and decided to go to the public bathroom until I saw a person sitting at a table in between the two “public” bathrooms, in between the signs that said 40 centimos, etc. I was going to ask if children get in for free (since I was with my six-month year old), but instead I chuckled to myself and wondered if anyone would pay to go to the bathroom there when they could go to any one of the nearby bars/restaurants. What is wrong with this picture?
What an article to think about!
I’ve thinking about it and I there are so nice people, people who are doing their work so naturally and gently that We would pay more for that service.
I would pay more money to the woman who sells me the newspaper and says me “good morning” every day with a smile, to the bus-driver who waits for me when it’s raining, to the sales-woman who spends time with me…..
In fact, I can’t remember when I did something without asking for a price …or perhaps I do it and I haven’t noticed about it.
Bye
My name-your-price tour guide experience was in Tunisia, specifically in the medina of Sousse. We were walking around avoiding eager shopkeepers when suddenly an old, very educated man in a suit started talking to us in French for no particular reason, telling us about the football match that was going to go on that day and how normal Tunisians were not the Tunisians the shopkeepers represented. And, as older people tend to do, he told us how in the past, things were better. Then he took us to a makeshift museum, most likely run by a cousin, sister-in-law, or friend’s husband, but it was something interesting that we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. It was a wealthy family’s house. Our “guide” explained everything to us and we even got a discount on the entrance fee.
The price to pay came later, at the mosque. We were utterly confused when this guide took us there and showed us some sort of tree that connected all the Abrahamic religions. Then he recommended an amount of money to give the lady who tended the mosque. It turned out it be quite a lot but what were we to say? He wasn’t begging like the rest of them. So we gave her the money, put our shoes back on, shook hands, and kept walking, this time unaccompanied by a Tunisian, making us bait for more harassment.
This story is really lovely. It invites you to read it slowly and draw the environment in your mind to feel the peace it brings, quite far away from the speedy life in town.
I’m not accustomed to experiences like that. I think I’ve never had a tour guide like Carlos. But I had a very pleasant experience in the USA when I visited Yosemite Park. There was a train that took you around the park. My husband and I hadn’t taken any binoculars to see far in the distance what the guide was explaining and suddenly an old sir realized that and offered his ones to us. He insisted us to keep them till the end of the visit because “it was a pity to miss that beauty�. Another girl had left her camera forgotten and again this man gave her a disposable one that he wasn’t going to use at the moment. It seemed that he was taking care for all of us to enjoy such a wonderful place. I have to confess that I was scared that he intended us to sing as scouts during the back trip.
We usually tend to think that free things hide some secret, some trick. We’re not used to having a nice experience for free in such a consumer society like ours. For me it’s quite a bit difficult to calculate the right amount of _ “generosity�_ I should give in return for a enjoyable service when there are no references but “as much as you feel like�. Maybe I’m too contaminated for this material world.
Regards,
Merche.
There is an English writer called Terry Pratchett who once wrote of a witch who received food from grateful people she had helped. When asked what she did with the food she said she stored it…”in other people.” By sharing the food with others, she built up a store of ‘goodwill’ in the local people.
In the Dharmic religions they talk of ‘karma’. The effects of all actions create past, present and future experiences. People like Carlos will have beautiful experiences.
What goes around, comes around.
Touching article, Jez!
Carlos the tour guide, Felix the miner… I look forward to a third article to complete the trilogy on remarkable men. Will there be one?
Hi Reyes,
I’m not sure if Carlos was employed in the field that he chose…or if, in reality, it was “the other way round”. Living on a small island with no industry, a small population (3000 I think from memory), but a steadily growing number of tourists, perhaps working as a tourist guide was the only source of income available to him. I don’t know.
How many people do you know who are, in your own words, employed in a field and don’t expect anything in return?
I’m delighted you enjoyed the article.
Jeremy
Language info on the difference between to hope and to expect
to hope
to expect
The key difference is found when you read the first line.
It’s not necessary to read all the info!!!
Hello Lourdes….
You have “hit the nail on the head” (dar en el clava??) when you say that it must have been a pleasure to listen to Carlos (real name : Carlixto Ramos…I don’t know why he introduced himself as “Carlos”...).
All his feelings, experiences and knowledge came out in the words he used and (above all) in the way he spoke and moved. He appeared to do it with all the “freshness” and “enthusiasm” of someone who’s doing something for the first time. If in reality he’s been doing it for years then my admiration for the man only increases.
...which brings me back to your Basque father-in-law.
He’s never asked for money, has he?!!??
Thanks for contributing to the blog.
“Agur Ben Hur”!
Jeremy
P.S. A good starting point for general travel info on Bolivia (in English of course) is The Lonely Planet Guide
Hello Dave…
Your story – and particularly your comment about the minimum amount that people gave the tour guide you mention – makes me think …
Perhaps these people end up getting more when they leave the decision up to us?
In other words…”a form of simple generosity”...or “a calculated ploy to boost income”?!!
Forty C for (only) a P, Paul??
What a rip off eh…
Dear Newspaper Buyer,
“Natural and gentle” are two words that sum up Carlos perfectly.
How curious that you mention these two people that form part of your daily life…who have a positive effect on you. I understand what you’re saying…yesterday I filled the car up with petrol and the Repsol guy who I paid (no chances there to name the price of course ! ha ha) was so pleasant & friendly that I found it impossible not to be “contagiado”.
Is it “normal” to tip a newspaper seller or bus drinver…perhaps at Christmas??
(is what’s “normal” important?)
Would the best tip normally be “money”?...
...I’m starting to ask too many questions again (Alicia!?).
“Yuspagara” for your contribution to the blog!
Jeremy
Hello Merche,
Yosemite Park eh…I think that’s “out west” in California or Nevada…is that right?
The old gentleman who you describe so clearly in your message certainly looked after you well, didn’t he! I imagine him to be short, of medium/ heavy build, with a grey lightweight jacket and a white baseball cap! And for some reason I imagine that he was there alone. Anyway – that’s enough about what’s in my imagination as I read your comments! I agree with you that it’s very difficult to “calculate the right amount of generosity”...
I mentioned to Lourdes (who wrote one of the earlier comments) that she’d “hit the nail on the head”.
You’ve done the same I think, when you talk about “free things hiding a secret”. (which in turn brings back some of the argument/ debate sparked by the “Free software” article of some months ago).
For me, the fact alone that you were able to to “see” the generosity of The Yosemite Gentleman confirms that you are free from much of the contamination that’s clearly out there…
Your message (in wonderful English) has done for me just what you said the article did! Thanks for that…
Have a nice day! as they say out west!
Jeremy
P.S. So…did you have to “sing like scouts” in the end?!
....Please excuse the delay in responding (if a response was expected that is![]())
!
Wesley…I can imagine the feeling you might have felt when it was put to you that you should make a contribution in the mosque. Difficult to say “no”, right? At least my tour guide Carlos actually explained how things were going to work – first he’d give us a tour, and then it was “pay-if-you-want” time. I’m not sure you had that option, or the “pre-tour” explanation, did you? Sounds like you had an interesting tour though I think.
Dónal…Terry Pratchett’s name is not new to me (I admit though to never having yet read any of his books) but the witch story sounds good.
Paola…thanks for the comment. Next “Bolivian” to be featured…hmmm…I’ll have to think about that! I hope everything “is on the up” down under…
All the best for now,
Jeremy